materials | care
All busk and bask leather bags and accessories are made of full grain, vegetable-tanned leathers. As opposed to chromium tanned leather which uses chromium salts, vegetable tanning is an organic process brought about through combinations of bark and natural plant extracts in the form of tannins. For up to 60 days the liquor tannins bind to the collagen proteins in the hide causing them to become less water soluble and more resistant to bacterial attack.
The transformation from raw hides into a material that will last a lifetime is a process that happens slowly in wooden drums. It is an astonishing process based on the use of natural tannins, traditional techniques, and modern technology but mainly, on the slow passage of time.
Occasionally minor scratches and marks will be visible on the leather as a result of the natural process. This is normal and is not to be seen as a defect rather part of its individual patina that will continue to develop and enhance its beauty and character.
Vegetable tanned leather just like any other material is influenced by sunlight, moisture and dirt. The leather will change, take on natural porcelain tones, and develop a nice patina over time if maintained properly.
Selvage (US) or selvedge (UK) is the technical term for the narrow and tightly woven self-finished edges that function as the natural endings on each side of fabric woven on vintage shuttle looms.
This process naturally uses more yardage of cotton and takes longer to make, but the careful selvage weave is what gives vintage denim its higher quality and resistance to fraying or unraveling. The denim selvage is usually white with a colored thread in the middle, used by mills for identification purposes.
Our bags are made from raw selvage denim from three of the worlds best textile mills.
- Cone Mills-White Oak Plant (North Carolina,US)
- Nihon Menpu (Japan)
- Isko (Turkey)
Water repellent canvas
Our water repellent fabrics are made without the use of formaldehyde or fluoropolymers. The fabric is highly water resistant. All of our waxed and water repellent canvas is dyed and finished by the Martin Corporation, the premiere American manufacturer since 1838.
Untreated canvas. Our numbered duck is a natural canvas that gets its name from two cotton threads that cross each other, forming the number sign (#) or hashtag (#) if you prefer :)
Cordura fabrics are known for their durability and resistance to abrasions, tears and scuffs. We use a 1000x1000 denier heavy duty cordura. Cordura material is water resistant and very durable. You can clean your cordura bag by using normal hand soap and a moist sponge or cloth. Our 1000d multicam cordura is Berry compliant meaning it is of American origin, starting from the fiber of the fabric to the end product.
Teak - tectona grandis
Considered by many to be the "King of all Woods" Teak has the greatest capability of any wood to withstand the punishing effects of any outdoor environment. Our particular love affair with teak is inspired by the great Scandinavian designers of the mid-century.
Black Walnut - juglans nigra
Highly prized for its dark colored true heartwood. The wood develops a rich patina that not unlike yourself, grows more attractive with age.
- Chicago Screws - Solid Brass and Black Oxide (low lead under 100ppm)
- Rivets - Solid Copper hand hammered rivets
- Grommets - Solid Brass and Black Oxide rolled rim spur grommets.
- Buckles and Rings - Solid Brass and Black Oxide
hard luck | what to do about it
If the leather has become dirty, wipe it off with a clean dry cloth. Wipe gently and do not rub hard. If scratched, a natural wax or leather cream can be applied to restore. Test a small area first as the application of leather conditioners may darken the natural shade of the leather. We recommend reconditioning with Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP, Neatsfoot oil or other natural wax based conditioners periodically to protect leather from prolonged exposure to the elements.
Consider it good luck and a life well traveled.
The durable nature of cordura fabric makes cleaning relatively easy. Most stains and marks can be easily cleaned with a moistened sponge along with a non-bleach based detergent spray.
Many of the bags utilize non-traditional origami inspired construction techniques. A series of interlocking bends and folds are attached with Chicago screws and studs. The Chicago screws have been secured with loctite and are very secure, however If you have lost a screw for some reason please let us know and we can send you a replacement.
The solid hardwood has been milled, hand sanded and treated as part of the design and construction process. You do not have to treat it other than an occasional wipe and shine with any natural wood cleaner/polish/wax.